There is of course one single strong contra-argument to these reviewers' no-go situations

There is, of course, one single strong contra-argument to these reviewers' no-go situations. Tend to produce in warm weather following rain when soil is moist. Fresh ones are not available yet in supermarkets, though dried porcini are.. WHEN I began reviewing restaurants for this column back in May I swiftly discovered two major reviewers' faux pas: the first that you should never review a specific meal at a favourite restaurant - the chosen meal is bound to be uncharacteristically lousy, then you are caught between honesty and never being able to darken their doors again, or being economical with the truth. Look like phallic toadstools, with honeycombed sponge surface, the spores tucked into the base of these indentations Often sandy, so brush them or wipe with damp cloth Dried ones should be soaked for 20 minutes in warm water Good in creamy sauces; the dried ones are good in stews pounds 2.99 per 125g.Porcini (Boletus edulis) French ceps Chewy, substantial strong, savoury aroma Excellent for drying and pickling. They are edible, but on large specimens you can rub them off Bland but chewy Fry or stew with onion They pickle well.

pounds 2.99 per 125g.Morels (Morchella elata and esculenta) French morilles. One of the great prizes, with strong savoury flavour and perfume Do not eat raw. pounds 2.99 per 125g.Trompettes de mort (Craterellus cornu- copioides) Charcoal grey Often dirty, need rinsing Earthy flavour, provides colour and texture to a dish. pounds 2.99 per 125g.Pied de mouton (Hydnum repandum) In the UK we call it Hedgehog Fungus after the spiky gills that form between stem and cap. pounds 2.99 per 125g.Grey chanterelle (Cantharellus tubaeformis) Similar to the girolles but grey in colour. pounds 1.59 per100g.WILDChanterelle, also known as Girolles (Cantharellus cibarius) Yellowy frilly, sharp perfume of apricots A little cream accentuates their sharp flavour Keeps well (up to five days in vegetable section of fridge) Peppery when raw Good cooked with scrambled eggs. pounds 2.19 per 100g.Maitake (Grifola frondosa) Firm and creamy white.

Can be sliced and eaten raw, which emphasises its nutty, slightly peppery bite Or cook it like any other mushroom. pounds 2.19 per 100g.Shiitake Elegant, uniform, brown-capped mushrooms, with great delicacy of texture and flavour Again, best fried. Once opened, a jar should be used up fairly rapidly.CULTIVATEDWood blewit (Lepista nuda) Lilac to violet Chewy substantial, lends itself to frying in butter Can be frozen, if pre-cooked Eaten raw it can be mildly toxic, but not when cooked. Drain the mushrooms and, without using your hands because the mushrooms are now sterilised, spread on a very clean cloth to cool and dry for a few hours Sterilise jars that can be tightly closed. Put a few mushrooms into a jar, pour in a little olive oil to cover and (using the same spoon for each operation) mix gently so that the oil reaches all parts of the mushrooms.

Add more mushrooms and more oil in the same way until the jar is full, close the lid tightly and keep for at least a month before use. Cover the jars: they will keep for a long time.To serve, drain the mushrooms and toss in a few drops of olive oil.MUSHROOMS IN OILThis second method, the usual one in Italy, is slightly more expensive since the mushrooms have to be immersed in pure olive oil - but the results are worth it. Again, only the best tender young specimens should be used, and absolute cleanliness is paramount.2kg/4lb mushrooms, cleaned and cut1 litre/2 pints good white wine vinegar500ml/1 pint water2 tablespoons salt5 bayleaves, 10 clovesolive oilBring the brine ingredients to the boil, add the mushrooms and boil for five to 10 minutes. Remove the mushrooms with a sterilised spoon and fill jars with them, leaving some space for the liquor. Let the brine cook for a further 10 minutes and set aside to cool When completely cool, cover the mushrooms with the liquor.